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Showing posts with label Hardware. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hardware. Show all posts


There has been a ton of speculation as to what the pricing plans for the next generation of iPhone would be in Canada. The iPhone will come with 4 different voice and data plan packages, ranging from $60 - $115, with the minimum data on the plan being 400 MB going up to a maximum of 2 GB.

The voice plans are very similar to what you would see on other mobile phones in Canada. They start at 150 weekday minutes, with free evening and weekends and progress on to 800 weekday minutes with free evenings and weekends.

Additional airtime is tiered based on usage, at 35 cents per minute, 25 cents per minute, and then 15 cents per minute. Additionally, data usage beyond the monthly allowed limit is 50 cents per MB for the first 60 MB, and then 3 cents per MB thereafter.

It seems our high Canadian hopes of getting an unlimited data plan from Rogers for our iPhone has fallen quite short. Fortunately, it is a step forward in the data plan world (and by world I mean Canada).

You can check out the official page for the rates here.

What do you guys think of the rates? Let me know in the comments!

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CNBC wrote an article that spiked some interest in me recently. It was regarding Blackberry's and other similar devices being used to keep employees 'in the loop' after business hours, and whether or not these employees should be compensated.

Personally, I am all for compensation, as long as it is appropriate. Checking your Blackberry a couple of times a night, and totaling 5 minutes of your time should obviously not be considered working from home. On the other hand, it brings up an interesting concept of whether or not you are expected to respond to emails that directly involve your communication or require approval / advice of some kind on your part.

Is it generally expected that you are available until 9 pm every night? 24/7 even? Then yes, you should be compensated. Many companies choose a route that is more of an indirect compensation method consisting of special benefits such as longer vacation time, a better cube / office, and other indirect, 'off the books' style of compensation. These employees are expected to respond to emails, as well as be available for calls.

Unfortunately, I don't believe very many companies follow a more direct compensation route. With the release of more technologically advanced devices such as the iPhone, however, companies who adopt such products may have no choice but to directly pay their employees for this kind of accessibility.

This is definitely a serious topic among working professionals. Many could see an increase of pay for what would be considered 'on-call' hours. This could be as much as 10% - 15% of their yearly salary.

What do you think of Blackberry compensation? Let me know in the comments.

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With the release of Apple's new 3g iPhone, the Canadian pricing plans leaked, and the general hype behind the whole product in general, I thought it might be beneficial to explain to everyone a new service that is being launched by Apple in the coming weeks.

This service is called MobileMe.

Essentially, what this boils down to, is a service similar to what enterprises use (Microsoft Exchange Server) in order to keep their mail, contacts, notes, and other information synchronized between multiple devices and computers. MobileMe provides this service to the everyday home user with multiple devices.

In order to explain a little bit more clearly, an example is in order.

Let's say for instance, that I am out with my fiance at a restaurant. We are having a fantastic time and we want to make sure we never forget the restaurant, and it's contact information. I generally won't have my laptop with me (unless I am just asking for an argument) at a restaurant, but I almost definitely will have my iPhone. I simply enter the contact information for this specific restaurant on my iPhone, and within seconds this information is pushed to my Macbook and my home PC. Now, if I am at home working on any one of my computers, I can pull this information up at a glance.

This is just a small example of what MobileMe offers. Obviously there are more pressing uses for this system, and more important reasons to have it. Fortunately, my only objective here is to explain what the service does.

Another part of the service that is worth mentioning, is the inclusion of an iDrive. Your iDrive is essentially a network drive that allows you to connect to it from anywhere in the world and download/upload files. For instance, let's say you had a document that you wanted to have available on your iPhone for mobile use. You simply upload it to a folder that you create on your iDrive, and it is ready to be accessed, taken off the iDrive, changed, re-uploaded, and so on.

Details on MobileMe


MobileMe is available on two different plans, with upgrades available. The lowest price is $99 for a year of membership. This includes 20 GB of online storage, with a 200 GB bandwidth cap (per month).

As far as I can tell, the bandwidth cap applies to the push of information to all of your devices. So for instance, if you make an update on your Macbook, the information is sent to what apple calls the 'cloud'. The cloud then sends the data down to your Windows machine, as well as your iPhone. What this results in is a transfer of the information on 3 separate occasions. Having said that, I believe 200 GB of transfer space is a fantastic amount. You would have to do a ridiculous amount of emailing, updating contacts, and various other activities to come close to this. If you were constantly transferring music, movies, and other such giant files you could end up passing this limit, but even at that, this is unlikely.

If you have multiple devices, and you are obsessed with keeping data synchronized across them, I would definitely take a serious look at MobileMe.

Let me know what you think in the comments!

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The guys over at wlmtips.com require some praise and approval for their efforts on their website. It is only young (much like The Tech Juice) but it manages to have substantial content available for a blog that is such a young age. I encourage everyone to go check it out if they like the content here at The Tech Juice.

The most useful post (that I have come across, anyway) is regarding using Internet Explorer on Linux. Being a web developer often requires testing of your web applications, web sites, etc., on various platforms. It is important that you are able to view the page in as many different ways as possible, to ensure the highest level of compatibility among users.

Using Internet Explorer in Linux allows me to accomplish this task. These guys have put together a great article, and they are worthy of some praise in their efforts to create a website with original content, good layout, and convincing technical knowledge.

I have included a link to wlmtips in my sidebar, and I encourage all of my readers to check them out. I'm sure if you find anything I write useful, you will definitely find information to your liking on this site.

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We have seen the iPhone data plans leaked for Canadian users. It appears that an internal memo has been put out to the internet, and was posted by a member of the ehmac forum community.

I hope that this is the correct information, because it is about time Rogers gets an unlimited data plan. Spread the word around, and help get these Canadian users the information they have been looking for.

If anyone has any more information about this or other iPhone aspects, let us know in the comments. We want to hear it!

Rogers and Apple today announced that the iPhone 3G will be available in Canada on July 11. iPhone 3G combines three products into one small, lightweight device: a revolutionary mobile phone, a widescreen iPod, and it puts the Internet in your pocket with the best e-mail, web browsing, search and maps applications ever on a mobile phone.

The new version of the iPhone harnesses the power of Rogers's broad and powerful 3G mobile broadband network, which offers 3G mobile phones download speeds of up to 1.4 Mbps.

Key Device Features:
Operates on Wi-Fi, EDGE, and 3G networks
New enterprise e-mail capability with support for Microsoft Exchange ActiveSync
New iPhone software development kit (SDK) to support new innovative applications

New Activation Process and Return Policy:
The iPhone 3G will be activated at point of sale when the device is purchased, in store. The Fido grace period will change from 15 days to 30 days and will require the device to be returned to place of purchase before service is cancelled. The 30-day Rogers grace period will remain unchanged with the exception of no limits being imposed for voice or data usage.

Pricing and Plans
Device Pricing:
$199 8GB and $299 16GB for new activations and qualified upgrades with existing 2 or 3-year agreements.

Data Plans and Pricing:
The iPhone 3G will be activated on existing Rogers and Fido voice rate plans, but new data plans have been created for the 3G device.

All iPhone 3G customers are required to have one of the new data plans and qualifying voice plan.
Customers intending to use the iPhone 3G for access to corporate e-mail, business applications, or access to corporate intranet are required to activate with Enterprise Data Plan for iPhone.
SUP service discounts for both voice and data plans will apply to iPhone 3G.
RAC service discounts for voice and data will apply to iPhone 3G, when on a qualifying data plan.
Ambassadors will not get a discount on device purchase for iPhone 3G.
Data Pricing will be as follows:

Consumer Data Plan (must be added to qualified voice plan):
$30 - Unlimited Data (E-mail/Web), includes Visual Voicemail when subscribed to any voicemail service.

Enterprise Data Plan (must be added to qualified voice plan):
$45 – Unlimited Data with personal and corporate e-mail, web, includes Visual Voicemail when subscribed to any voicemail service.

Upgrade Eligibility and Qualified Upgrade Pricing
Upgrade eligibility will be determined based on standard upgrade eligibility rules. Customers must be upgrade eligible to receive the qualified upgrade pricing. However, not all customers will be qualified upgrades. Rogers has not determined the price of the 3G device for non-qualified upgrades.

All customers will be required to sign a 3-year agreement. There will not be a "no commitment" price or a 2-year agreement for the iPhone 3G.

Activation Process
The new 3G device will be activated in store in Rogers, Fido and Apple stores. Customers must accept Rogers and Apple terms of service, sign a 3-year agreement, and select the data plan for the iPhone 3G before leaving the store. A short tether process to unbrick the 3G device will be performed in all Rogers and Fido stores (tether cords will be provided). Apple stores will also perform this tether process, however in the event that a customer's device is not tethered in the Apple store, their device will be inoperable until they get home and tether through iTunes. Prepaid will not be allowed on the iPhone 3G device.

RAC tools, including TOE and Salescentral have been modified to allow agents to enter customer's information, select rate plans and data plans, device price (if applicable) and output a document that will allow store reps to quickly access the customer's information and save time for data entry in the activation process.

Compensation
Because the 3G device will only be activated in store, compensation for the 3G device will be BAU. RAC reps will receive compensation for upgrades and new activations with a 3-year agreement.

Purchase Limit
The device purchase limit will be three (3) per customer for iPhone 3G in Rogers and Fido stores.

Direct Fulfillment
The DFU tool will be available at launch at RAC for iPhone 3Gs. Customers will be required to pay for the device when the order is placed and the phone will be shipped to the store in the customer's name for pickup.

Return Policy
The return policy for Fido iPhone 3G is changing from 15 days to 30 days for both Apple and Fido stores. The 30-day Rogers grace period will remain unchanged with the exception of no limits being imposed for voice or data usage.

To cancel service within the first 30 days, the customer must return their equipment to the place of purchase (no exceptions).
If the customer cancels service after 30 days, they will be charged the ECF and DECF. The customer is not required to return the device to cancel after 30 days.

Merchandising/Marketing
3G demos will be pulled from stock when they arrive following launch process for display devices.
Video loop content will be pushed to stores when it is available.
The following merchandising elements will be in stores for launch:

Rate brochure and display rate card
22 x 28 poster
Window banner

Training
Device training, including features and functionality, will be available via Library and Fidoversity by 6/30.
Training for all representatives will begin no later than 7/1.
Launch preparedness training, including last minute details, will be conducted the week of launch (if needed) by team leaders.
Communications/Library
All iPhone-related communications, inclusive of training announcements, will be posted to Library. Search on keyword "iPhone 3G" to locate.

Launch Plans
Support logistics for launch day will be available:

Letters will be sent to all landlords under VP/GM signature for advance notice of store hours, crowds expected, possible parking issues, etc.
Security will be provided for locations requesting armed police or unarmed, uniformed guards.
Manager checklists will be provided to support managers to set expectations and help them be prepared to complete all required actions.
Documents will be posted on TGP to let managers know when to expect delivery of launch support materials.
Job descriptions for key launch day functions will be provided for: Back Office Manager, Crowd Manager, Greeter, Product Demonstrator, and Security Support.


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So, the iPhone 3G 2.0 is shipping out to Canada. Are you going to be one of the early adopters? Or are you going to wait a little while? Perhaps for a hardware upgrade?

Obviously, one could argue that using the 3G technology is going to be a significant upgrade to the iPhone. So much so, in fact, that some current iPhone users are talking of ditching their model to get the new one. 3G wireless data transfer rates are up to 2.8 times faster than the EDGE connection that the iPhone 1.0 uses. I'm not sure whether or not that would justify me ditching a year old device for a $200 bandwidth speed upgrade.

I realize a lot of you are located in America, and obviously the iPhone release is a little bit less exciting. Fortunately, for us Canadians, we excite easily. Much like a wild bunny, scared of it's own shadow.

I will be heading out to the Apple store in Toronto on July 11th to pick up my iPhone, and I plan on bringing a camera so I can let you guys know just how ridiculous it is going to be down there. From what I am told, they are not releasing the iPhone to consumers until 6 PM. This is a perfect time for me - it gives me a couple of hours after work to get there and get in line.

The question still stands.

Are you going to be one of the early adopters? This extends out to the American crowd as well. Considering the technology has not been released yet, and there is no way of knowing if even half of Apple's promises have truth to them, our neighbours to the south can test drive this device with us.

Do you already have an iPhone? Are you getting an iPhone 3G? Do you despise the iPhone and all it stands for? Let's try to stir up some controversy in the comments.

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Those of you out there in the wonderful world wide web that own Apple Macbook's may just be in for a fantastic little treat today. Recently, I upgraded my Macbook and I thought it would be of some value to document the process so other people could learn from my mistakes. I took some notes during the whole ordeal and after all was said and done I had a much better laptop, all in all.

A Little Backstory



Last year, I purchased a Macbook. This fancy little machine was the answer to my prayers. It quickly became 2007's most significant purchase, excluding my fiance's wedding ring. Before I purchased the Macbook, however, I had some thinking to do.

I considered the options available, and ended up choosing the right Macbook for my needs at the time. It was around this time that I wrote my guide to buying your new Macbook or Macbook Pro. That article is a little bit out dated now, but it provides some of the reasoning behind my purchase.

I bought the cheapest Macbook available. I could not justify spending an extra three or four hundred dollars to get a DVD burner, an extra bit of RAM, and an insignificant amount of hard drive space. Apple seems to gouge the hell out of hardware prices. It was then and there that I decided I would upgrade a bit later when the time was right, instead of forking out the cash immediately.

Specs Before Upgrading my Macbook


  • Macbook (13.3") Core 2 Duo @ 2.0 GHz
  • 80 GB Hard Drive
  • 1 GB RAM

Specs After Upgrading my Macbook


  • Macbook (13.3") Core 2 Duo @ 2.0 GHz
  • 250 GB Western Digital Scorpio 5400 RPM 8 MB Cache (~$135)
  • 4 GB Crucial RAM Kit DDR2 @ 667 MHz ($100)

These parts were all ordered from NCIX, the only company that I order from online. They have always had great customer service to go hand in hand with their great pricing. I recommend you give them a look if you buy computer parts on any kind of regular basis.

How to Upgrade Your Macbook



The first and most important step is to make sure you have your data backed up. This can be accomplished several different ways, but I opted to simply copy my internal 80 GB drive to the 250 GB drive before installing it. This way, when I install the drive and start my computer, it recognizes everything and I don't have to worry about losing anything.

Step 1
Put the new hard drive into some kind of USB or firewire enclosure that will allow you to access it from your Macbook. I used a Vantec Nexstar SATA 2.5/3.5 inch Hard Drive Docking Station, which did the trick quite well.

Step 2
Download Carbon Copy Cloner. This software is amazing for creating a bootable backup of your Macbook. It took just under one hour to back up approximately 50 GB. You create a bootable backup onto the new drive, so that when you put it in your Macbook, you will still have all of your data.

Step 3

Format the new drive to Mac OS Extended (Non Journaled). If you do not do this, the storage device probably will not show up in your Carbon Copy Cloner application.

Step 4
Do the backup. At this point, it's about as simple as choosing "bootable backup" and hitting backup now. If you have any trouble just let me know in the comments and I will see if I can help. I don't claim to be an expert, but I will do what I can.

Step 5
Replace the hardware. Obviously the trickiest of the steps. Make sure you have a Torx bit around to take the encasement off of the hard drive. I did not have one and was forced to use a wrench. I don't recommend this however, as it does not leave the prettiest looking equipment.

Step 6
Party!

Note: There are some important asides I wanted to make about this installation process. The first of which is that you should follow Apples PDF. You can locate it here. This pdf does not explain every single aspect in detail, but it should show you enough of the basics to get a good understanding of what it is you are doing.

The RAM on the Macbook is extremely tricky to insert. You must push evenly on both sides, with stronger force than you would probably deem necessary, in order to make the RAM seat correctly. Use this guide to learn how to install the memory specifically.

The hard drive is very easy going. You take off the L-bracket, pull the hard drive out using the tab, and then slide it back in when you are done. Be careful not to do this upside down, as I spent about twenty minutes trying to put the hard drive in the wrong way.

I believe that is it! You should be ready to go with your upgraded Macbook. If you have any questions, comments, etc. make sore to leave them here for me.

Note: Following the advice on this site is done at your discretion. I caution you to look to other resources before attempting these installs. If you do not feel comfortable with the install, I'd suggest finding someone to help you who knows a little bit more about these things.

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Western Digital is launching their brand new hard drive which apparently has free fall detection built into the drive. What this essentially does is cause the read/write head to stop moving in order to try and prevent a head crash if the drive gets banged around a bit too much.

Not only does the new drive have this sexy new technology, but it boasts a speedy 7,200 RPM, noise reduction technology, 16 MB cache, and a sweet name like Scorpio.

It's too bad I only very recently purchased a new hard drive, as these devices look quite promising. You can check out some more information over at Engadget.

I can't help but wonder if someone is going to test out this new free fall detection with some fancy drop tests. If you know of any tests like these going on, let me know.

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We all know that the hard drives available today are crap. Hard drives are limited to how fast they spin. The interface connecting the hard drive to the mother board can only transfer data as fast as the head can read or write. So obviously the next logical step is to create a drive that no longer has moving parts. Moving parts are slow. Moving parts are loud. Moving parts are fragile.

The problem with this idea is that the solid state drives that have been created are limited in the amount of times they can write data. According to eeeuser, the average lifespan of a SSD (solid-state drive) is over twenty years with average usage. He considers average usage to be approximately 6 hours of usage per day, with 10% write time. As you are obviously aware, 20 years using the same drive is simply not something to worry about.

A problem remains, though, as the chart in this graph is somewhat inaccurate. Wear leveling is used to write to the whole disk at one time, to lower the amount of write cycles that are used. This means that instead of writing small chunks of data all over the place, the entire drive (or much of the drive) is written to in one cycle. There are industry standards with this, and the chart on the link above proposes both a 100% effective leveling, and a 50% effective levelling. The accurate number is likely to be between the 50 and 100 mark. The problem, is that the same usage results in a drastically shorter lifespan with a 50% effective wear leveling versus 100% effective wear leveling.

I really hope we do not see these new and fancy drives crapping out on people within the next couple of years, but if that happens I'll be glad I wasn't an early adopter. I recently had a chance to play around with an IBM X300, and it was a thing of beauty. The SSD allows the device to perform disk operations at an incredibly faster rate, and is immediately noticeable.

I don't claim to be an expert on the subject. I don't even claim to know all that much about it. I simply claim that the whole idea of limited write cycles scares me out of purchasing one of these drives. Until I can be told with some certainty that they will work for at least the amount of time I need them for, these puppies are going to stay on my radar, but out of my wallet.

Have any of you used an SSD in any kind of server environment? Or even personal use? I would be extremely interested to get some disk usage statistics from a network administrator who runs SQL on a SSD. Let me know in the comments.

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Your motherboard is probably the single most important item in your computer. It handles all of the communication between all of your devices. Everything is connected to the motherboard in some way or another.

There are some important things to take into consideration when determining the motherboard you would like to use. I will go through some of the most important things in a list below, and hopefully it will help you better understand what you need with your motherboard, and maybe even save you some hard earned cash.

One quick note before we get into the details of your motherboard. Always try to allow yourself room for upgrading to newer technologies if possible. Because the motherboard is the component that interfaces all of your other pieces, if at any time later you want to upgrade a specific component of your machine (new CPU for instance), you may encounter problems. Your new chosen CPU may not fit in your old motherboard, which causes you to upgrade. At that point, some of your other components (RAM for example) may not work with the new motherboard. You've now had to shell out money for three separate components rather than one.

Socket


The socket on your motherboard is where your CPU sits. Visit my article on how to choose your processor for some more information on that topic. The socket is important because it lets you know what CPU will fit with your chosen motherboard. It is also important to know how old the type of socket is, to ensure it will last you in years to come. For instance, when I first built my desktop computer, dual core processors were just coming out and were very expensive. I chose to go with a socket 939 motherboard, as it supported the new dual core chipsets that were hitting the market with their steep prices. Initially I went with a single core AMD Athlon 64 3000+, and later, after prices dropped I transitioned to an AMD Athlon X2 64 4200+ dual core.

RAM Slots


This is where your computers memory fits in. You can read more about choosing your RAM on another post in this series. RAM is very important to the overall system performance, so you should always try to get the best you can for the amount of money you are spending.

PCI-Express, AGP or PCI slots


PCI-Express and PCI slots can be used for various devices, and are located on the top of your motherboard. AGP slots are used for graphics acceleration, but is considered old technology now. If you do any gaming, a PCI-Express card and compatible motherboard is recommended. PCI slots act as expansion bays for other devices, such as sound cards and network cards, to name a few.

Integrated Peripherals


These are components of your computer that are important, and can sometimes be included on your motherboard. These are also considered "on board peripherals". Some of the items that can come on your motherboard natively are a sound card, video card, network card, USB, firewire, bluetooth, SATA disk controllers, and perhaps some more. It is important here that you determine what you need to have on there, so you purchase a motherboard that has the features you need, and lacks the features you do not. For instance, when I purchased my motherboard I wanted one that had no video card on it. This is because I already had a video card, so I had no need for the on board video card. These types of sacrifices on your motherboard can drastically reduce the price you pay for the component, without lessening the experience. You can check out my post on choosing your video card as well as choosing your network card to help you determine if you need those separate to your motherboard or not.

What is the BIOS


BIOS stands for a couple different things, but my preferred usage of the term is for a Basic Integrated Operating System. What the BIOS does is initiate all of the hardware components required to use and load the programs on your computer. The process in which this is done, is called the POST (power-on self test), and eventually transfers control over to what is known as a boot loader. The boot loader then chooses the operating system to start, and up comes the windows XP loading screen, Mac OS X Apple, or a Linux loading screen.

Some important changes can be made in the BIOS. Before the POST, the user can enter the BIOS settings and change various properties, such as the boot sequence. Be careful doing this, as it can cause major problems if done incorrectly. The BIOS runs everything before you get into the operating system you chose, so if it breaks you have a major problem.

This concludes the series on Choosing the Right Computer for you. If you have any questions, feedback, etc. Don't hesitate to send an email to thetechjuice@gmail.com or post a comment here.

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This piece of fancy hardware is what connects your computer to the various people and places on the interweb. It is often overlooked when purchasing a new computer, so I thought it might be appropriate to give it a small section in my series on how to choose the best computer for you.

What is Wireless B? Wireless G? Wireless N?



Essentially what the B, G or N in the wireless router or wireless Network Card (or NIC) mean, is the class of the wireless signal that is being sent out and received. Wireless technology is still blooming, and only with the introduction of wireless g have we been able to connect wireless at a similar or even faster rate than your typical Ethernet connection. For comparison purposes, I will put a small chart below with some information.




















ClassSpeedRange
802.11b11 Mbit/s~38 meters (124 ft)
802.11g54 Mbit/s~38 meters (124 ft)
802.11n248 Mbit/s~70 meters (229 ft)


As you can see, there is a significant speed increase between the most popular types. There is also a range increase when you jump from wireless G to wireless N. What this means, is depending on the speed you want, and the range you need, you can make a more informed decision about purchasing this component.

What Does a Router do? Why do I Need it?


Very common questions, and relatively difficult to answer in non technical terms. I will try my best though. The router acts as a gateway for your cable modem. It determines what is allowed into your home as well as what is allowed out of your home, as far as data is concerned. In the case of wireless routers, they are the stations that broadcast the signal to which you are connecting. Your router itself does not provide the Internet, but rather it routes the traffic into your modem. Your modem provides the connection, and your router is basically a traffic cop.

A router is necessary to connect multiple computers to a single broadband connection. It also is useful as a firewall, as it deters malicious attempts to enter your home network. A router can also be used to set schedules for times of the day that your kids (for instance) are not allowed to access the Internet, or blocking sites that have certain keywords in the domain. Needless to say it is a useful device, and one I feel every person connected this way should have.

Which Router do I Get?


First you should decide on which class of wireless you would like, and you will model your computers and router to that accordingly. If you absolutely must have the bandwidth capabilities provided by 802.11n, then by all means go that route. Purchase a wireless-N router, and make sure your computer has either a wireless N card in it already, or if it doesn't you can purchase one. Wireless N tends to be more expensive than wireless G, but can be worth the money if it suits your needs.

What Network Card?


As long as the network card matches the signal if your router, it does not really matter what brand you get. Having said that, a wireless G network card can connect to your wireless N router. The router scales down and speaks at slower intervals so that the slower wireless G technology can understand it. What this means is your connection will be as slow as the slowest device incorporated.

Upgrading your home network from a wired set up to a wireless one can be a costly procedure. This is especially true if you have multiple computers that need to receive attention in order to work with the wireless router. Also, most wireless routers come with ports in the back for regular hard connections as well, so that option is still there.

If you have any questions or feedback let me know in the comments.

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We're getting close to the end of the series on How to Choose the Best Computer for you, and we're at the lovely subject of storage. When I say storage, I am referring to the media on which you store your every day files. Generally speaking this will be on a hard disk drive, and will be inside your computer.

With that in mind, I would like to go into some of the various things to consider when purchasing a hard drive, or comparing different drives to each other.

RPM (Revolutions Per Minute)


This is one of the main factors determining the speed of your drive. This is what essentially translates into the data transfer rate of your hard drive. Most hard drives for desktop computers sit at the 7200 RPM range, but can go as high as 15,000 RPM. The higher RPM drives, such as the Western Digital Raptors, are faster, but have a significantly higher price tag on them.

Hard Disk Cache


This, as explained before in my article on CPU's, is essentially the buffer between the CPU and the hard drive. The cache stores frequently accessed data as well as fetched data so that the CPU can access it much faster. Cache memory is extremely fast, and is used to help speed up the process of getting data from the hard drive to the CPU.

SATA versus ATA


This is the interface that connects the hard drive to the motherboard. SATA is essentially an ATA drive with a serial connection, which increases the bandwidth available to the card to transfer data. If your computer supports SATA it is recommended that you get a SATA drive instead of a ATA (previously known as IDE), as there is a noticeable speed increase in SATA drives.

Solid-State Hard Drives


A recent advancement in technology, and probably the most significant advancement in hard drives in many years, is the development of solid-state technology. This is a hard drive that has no moving parts. A typical SATA or ATA hard drive has moving head that reads and writes to the disk, and thus is limited to the speed at which it can physically move inside of the component. A sold-state drive on the other hand, is only limited to the bandwidth that is provided to it. What this gives you, is a hard drive that gives you near instant random read/write access, with a faster startup time as no moving parts are needed. SSD's are completely silent, as their are no moving parts. Another benefit to solid state hard drives is the fact that there is a constant speed across all sectors on the drive. This means that file fragmentation has little effect on the performance of the drive. One of the only major concerns for solid-state drives are their write limitations. Flash memory typically has 300,000 - 500,000 maximum write sequences that it can perform, before it essentially breaks. You can see some more information on this here.

Overall Capacity


The capacity of the drive is measured in Gigabytes, and varies from around 40 or 60 GB at the economist levels, up to 1000 GB. You can purchase 1000 GB external drives, but many times what the manufacturer has done to save money, is put two 500 GB drives into the enclosure, and connected them together. What this means is that the performance on the split drive is hindered. Determining how much space you need is relatively easy. For average users, storing music, images, word documents, and perhaps some movies, anything at around 60 GB or greater should suffice. If you play a lot of games, download torrents, and generally install many applications, it might be wiser to bump up as high as you can go in your price range. A good medium for desktop computers right now is around 250 GB, and on laptops 80 GB. If at any point you need to bump this space up, or would like some kind of back up solution, you can pick up a 500 GB external drive for relatively cheap.

Hopefully this has cleared up some of the concern about the storage space in your computer. If you have any more detailed questions email me or leave a comment.

Next: Choosing the Right Network Card

Previous: How to Choose your CPU

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The CPU is the workhorse of the computer. It takes all of the information that requires processing, and processes it. This makes it one of the most important components to your computer, and you should definitely think about which CPU is right for you. Here I will attempt to explain some of the properties that CPU's have, so you can make a more informed decision.

CPU Clock Speed


The CPU clock speed is the number of cycles that the CPU does per second. Lately, this is measured in gigahertz, and is an important number when it comes to your CPU. Faster clock cycles means that the CPU can process things quicker. It is important to note that when you are comparing CPU cycles, you should know that two different CPU architectures cannot directly be compared. If the architecture is the same, a CPU with a clock speed of 2.0 GHz will be twice as fast as a CPU that is clocked at 1.0 GHz.

Cache


Cache is used to lower the access time of frequently used memory by the CPU. It is smaller and faster than RAM and is very good at speeding up the CPU. There are two levels of cache, one is the L1 cache and the other is the L2 cache. L1 cache is used directly by the cores of the CPU while L2 cache is a buffer in the Bus Interface. Generally speaking, when comparing two processors of the same type, the higher the cache is the better. This does not mean however that an AMD processor with 2Mb of cache versus an Intel processor with 1Mb of cache is better. The processors should be compared directly to the chips of the same family.

What is Multi Core Processing? (Dual Core, Quad Core, etc.)


This is when the CPU has multiple cores on one die (the term for the chip). It allows for each core to handle threads concurrently. This means that although a multiple core system is better for multitasking, it may not necessarily be faster when given a single task. Much of this speed increase or decrease can be attributed to the software, and whether or not it takes advantage of multi threading applications. A thread is a given process that the CPU has to finish. When the term multi-threading is used it is referring to the ability to have a program split up threads into different chunks, and allow one processor to handle one thread while the other handles another thread. A dual core processor with both cores at 2 GHz can possibly perform as well as a single core that is clocked at 4GHz, however like I stated before, this is dependent on the software and how the processing is handled.

So Which CPU do I Choose?


Well, this really depends. As of late, CPU manufacturers have been spewing out cheap dual cores that have small amounts of cache. This is because cache is so expensive, making it the easiest way to cut corners on production cost. This means that although you may see a dual core processor with 2.4 GHz on that laptop you want to buy for $799, it is highly likely that the manufacturers have decreased the cache size in order to drop the hefty price tag down. I don't want you to think I am saying not to purchase this machine, I merely want you to recognize that you get what you pay for, as with most things in life. If a CPU appears to be drastically more powerful than all of the others in it's price range, I'd venture on the side of caution.

I hope this information was beneficial to you and helped to clear up some of the areas concerning CPU decisions. If this helped you (or didn't) feel free to let me know in the comments.

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A video card is the pinnacle of your computer hardware when it comes to gaming and graphic design. A good video card takes the load off of the CPU and uses it's own built in GPU (Graphics Processing Unit) to process all of the graphics necessary. It is important to realize that even though the graphics card is probably the most important component in your computer as far as gaming is concerned, computer components tend to work on the theory that a chain is only as good as its weakest link. If you have a fantastic graphics card, but the rest of your computer is mediocre, the system will bottleneck and the graphics card won't be able to fulfill the duties it is assigned as completely.

Many motherboards come with a built in video card that provides basic graphics processing using some shared system resources. This will definitely suffice for users who don't plan on playing games or doing any extensive graphics or video editing. These on board video cards are great for people who browse the internet, check their email, do their word processing tasks, or generally don't do anything extensive graphically.

Shall we get in to the important aspects of video cards? We shall.

Graphics Processing Unit (GPU)


The GPU is the workhorse of the graphics card. It is measured in MHz, as well as how many pipelines it has. The higher the clock rate is, the faster the GPU. The more pipelines it has, the more bandwidth the GPU can handle. This is typically what determines how fast the card is able to run without taking into account the speed of the memory.

Video Memory


Video memory is important because it determines how much textures and graphics can be stored at one time without having to load more from the hard drive, as well as how fast these are transferred to and from the GPU to be processed. A high amount of video memory does not necessarily mean a card will be faster. The video memory speed is measured in MHz, and as usual the higher the number the faster the memory is. Video memory works similar to the systems RAM, and you can find some more information about that here.

Maximum Resolution


This is the maximum output that the video card can do. It can not output higher than your monitor, so it is important to know the maximum of both. Check out How to Choose a Monitor for some more information about that.

PCI-Express versus AGP


PCI-Express is a relatively new interface for video cards. It is the slot in which your video card fits on your motherboard. When you are choosing your video card, it is important to remember that AGP is old technology, and is slower than PCI-Express. Ensure your motherboard supports PCI-Express before purchasing a PCI-Express video card. It is also important to know that many computers that come previously assembled have an open PCI-Express slot, but use on board video memory. This allows them to sell the computer a little bit cheaper, and provide the user a chance to upgrade video capabilities if they decide to.

What is SLI?


SLI is an acronym for Scalable Link Interface. It allows the installation and use of up to four separate video cards. These cards are used simultaneously to handle all of the graphics processing. SLI is great for those who can afford it, but keep in mind that not all games are optimized for SLI.

What if I Want Two Monitors?


If you want two monitors, all you have to do is make sure that the video card you purchase has two VGA or DVI outputs on the back of it. Then you can refer to this page to help you pick the two that you want. Two monitors are absolutely great for multi-tasking. They have many different uses and applications. My favorite program to use to control both monitors is UltraMon. It is simple, and allows for on the fly customization as well as hot keys.

I hope that helps clear up some of the more relevant issues that are associated with purchasing a new video card for your computer, or comparing video cards inside two computers you are choosing between. If you have any questions send me an email, or leave some comments!

Next: How to Choose the Best Operating System for You


Previous: How to Choose RAM for Your Computer

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RAM is one of the most important components in your computer when it comes to general speed and every day use. RAM allows for you to have applications open, which are stored in your RAM (Random Access Memory).

RAM is significantly faster than your hard disk drive, which is the drive that stores your operating system and files. It is also considered what is referred to as volatile memory, meaning it clears on shut down of the device.

So, now you can see that upgrading your RAM will increase the amount of applications that you can run simultaneously, as well as diminish the need for programs to swap data in and out of RAM to make use of the limited space.

Do I Need More RAM?



First, you must determine if you actually need more RAM. If you look at your task manager (Ctrl + Alt + Del), and check out the performance tab, you can see the current amount of memory you have, as well as the memory available to be used. If you are consistently using 75% or more of your RAM at your peak usage, I would recommend an upgrade.

What Does the Speed of the RAM Mean


The speed of the RAM is measured in MHz, and refers to the speed of the clock cycle. The faster the better. Having said that, it is important to reference your mother board's manual to determine the speed that is compatible with your computer.

What is Dual-Channel?


Dual channel RAM is essentially RAM that uses two 64-bit data channels to the CPU. This results in twice the bandwidth that allows for data to be transmitted to the RAM. Dual channel is definitely better, so if your motherboard supports it (again, check the manual) you should make sure you are taking advantage.

What Does the Amount of Pins Mean for RAM?


RAM comes in different sizes. RAM for laptops is a different size than the RAM for a desktop computer. Again, you must check your manual to make sure you get the correct pins associated with your motherboard.

There you have it. I hope this was of some help to those looking to buy a new computer, picking up some new RAM, or comparing different sticks of RAM to each other.

If you see anything here that is inaccurate, or needs a change, let me know in the comments.

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First, let me say that an appropriate monitor for what you do is important. You have to stare at it all day long, and it should make your desk or workspace aesthetically pleasing.

If however, you want to choose a monitor based on a little bit more information than that, read on for some of the specifications of monitors and what they mean exactly.

Maximum Resolution or Native Resolution


This is the maximum number of pixels that a monitor can produce, presented horizontally and vertically. This is important for several reasons. The higher the resolution, the higher the overall image quality of the picture is. It is also important because you generally want to run everything at your monitor's native resolution. Running software at resolutions lower than the native resolution causes images and text to appear blurry. If you plan on playing games, or doing some kind of graphic design a higher resolution is better.

Keep in mind running games at high resolutions puts more strain on the graphics card. If you have a great monitor but a terrible graphics card, you simply won't play the latest games at your monitor's native resolution. For instance, I run my 21.6" Samsung LCD at 1680x1050. I also have an EVGA GeForce 8800 GTS as my video card, so I don't run into issues with this resolution (yet).

Contrast Ratio


The contrast ratio of a monitor can be summed up as the ratio of the lightest colour to the darkest color. What this means, is that the higher your contrast ratio is, the brighter brights will look, and the darker darks will look. Because this is also impacted by the lighting of the room you are in, it likely does not have as much of an impact as the resolution does. The only time you will generally notice a difference between higher and lower contrast ratio's on monitors is if you compare them side by side.

Response Time


This is the time in which it takes a pixel in the monitor to turn from black, to white, to black again. It is measured in milliseconds, which by most standards is pretty fast. The faster the response time is, the less likely it is you will notice trails on images or other visual artifacts. I recommend you try to stay clear of monitors that have a response time higher than 8 ms, as you may notice trails and artifacts. If a monitor has G2G or GTG response time, it is the same as explained above, but goes from gray, to white, to gray, and is a more accurate measurement of typical usage.

Refresh Rate


An LCD monitor is not effected by refresh rate, as they have LED back lighting and do not exactly "refresh" as older CRT monitors did. This specification is outdated, and I would not pay any particular attention to the refresh rate of a given monitor.

I believe that covers most of the questions that one would ask when purchasing a new computer. If this helped you (or didn't) please let me know in the comments.

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The prices of desktop and laptop computers are dropping. There is not a better time to go out and pick up a brand new computer than right now. Having said that, sometimes it can be pretty confusing, even for technical people, to determine what the distinct differences are between two or more computers.

It is important to realize that in this article (and the other articles in the series) I will be referring to premade computers. If you want to learn about building your own computer, perhaps I will write a series on that. For now though, I'll focus on premade and put together computers from manufacturers such as Dell, HP, Sony, Apple, etc.

The topics I will cover in this series are:
(links will be provided as they are published)

Monitors
RAM
Video Cards
Operating Systems
Processors
Storage Devices
Network Cards
Motherboards

If you feel I missed something, or have any comments about anything written here, leave a comment or drop me an email at thetechjuice@gmail.com


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